I solved the issue adding 50 to the Curve Differential on the Aileron (Roll) stick on my Taranis radio...the problem is that I have no idea what I did...I was just guessing (or even worst: Why it just the problem started if I did nothing before) so, could you please explain to me what here happened? Thanks again. Regards.
Hi, sorry I missed your post before (didn't realize there was a second page..)
Well, it was strange that the problem just happened suddenly. Don't know why, but I'm glad you found the solution and hopefully it will not appear again (at least now you know what to do :) ) Thanks for sharing the solution!
Hi
Do you any movement in the little circles on the calibrations screen? Are you able to use the controller for any other game?
First you need to make sure that your computer is able to use the controller as a joystick. I don't know a Mac myself so I don't really know how to check that. I know some people are using a piece of software called USB Overdrive, which is a universal USB driver. http://www.usboverdrive.com/USBOverdrive/Informati...
You could try that, or hopefully some other Mac user will be able to provide more info.
this is annoying. finnaly got it to work once again and decided to get recharge now it doesn't work again. no circles moving at all. it only works when the game feels like noticing there is a controller plugged in...guess ill continue the annoying close program open program routine.
Hmm... can't remember hearing any other Taranis user who have had the same issue. Perhaps if there is someone reading this they can chime in.
Did you try to simply connect it to another USB port on your computer?
It sounds like it might be some kind of driver problem (either the computers USB driver or the firmware on the Taranis itself).
Not familiar with the eachine i6, but if it has a trainer out jack there is a good chance it will work.
Chances are you could use the Smartpropolus method described in the manual and in the Spektrum tips document.
There are also other alternatives, dongles such as:
http://www.banggood.com/22-In-1-USB-Flight-Simulat...
or
http://www.banggood.com/IRangeX-FPV-Wireless-Simul...
Hopefully an owner of the eachine i6 can chime in with some more concrete advice.
Hi. I'm not familiar with the Protonik, but on most transmitters it is possible to choose with channel the sticks output to.
So you could possibly try and set the yaw and roll to output to some other channel and see if that helps.
Are you using a USB dongle? If so, you can try and uninstall vJoy and/or Smartpropolus if you have those installed.
If it it still doesn't work with a dongle, you could try the Smartpropoplus method described in the manual (and Spektrum tips document).
Hi, thank you for your feedback, I am using a mac, therefore the vJoy and Smartpropolus can't be installed.
I am indeed using a USB dongle. According to you, I should change the settings in my controller (channels linked to yaw and roll) instead of on your software ?That would be so much easier if I could choose the channels directly in the game settings like in
Hotprops for example. I am willing to buy your game if I can install my protronik and stop playing with the logitech controller.
There are lots of transitters/gamepads that work with Freerider on Android.
It will differ on different devices though. Your device needs to support USB OTG. (Not sure if Android 7 makes any difference, I have no experience with that version myself).
Many people are using their Taranis, Flysky, Devo, xbox360, ps3, or universal usb RC transmitters on android for example.You can search for "freerider android" on youtube and you will probably find some tips.
This is the behavior I get when I simply plug in the controller and have nothing else connected and vJoy is not installed. I believe Smartpropplus doesn't apply to my controller, it's only for controllers that plug in through an audio cable isn't it? I read through the manual before posting on here and didn't see anything on there that could help. I was hoping you someone on here might have some piece of advice.
Thank you, glad you find it useful.
Your transmitter usually needs a USB out port, or a 3.5mm trainer out port. I don't think that hubsan transmitter has either of those, you will have to check.
Some people are using USB RC trainer dummys such as this:
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Httpwww_banggood...
(Not sure if that will work on your computer though).
If you want to use a real transmitter that you can also use for actualy flying the Devo 7E is one of the cheapest alternatives:
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Walkera-Devo-7E-...
(You should know that it doesn't have long range unless you mod it though. The Devo 10 is better in every way in my opinion, but cost twice as much).
The flysky fs-i6 is even cheaper. There are many other alternatives too, my suggestion will have to be to look around and see what suits you best. Also make sure that the one you choose will work on your setup. For some you will need an ordinary USB cable, for some a USB dongle, for others a standard 3.5 mono audio cable works best. For some a wireless receiver such as this is the best alternative.
If you want to spend a bit more money on the hobby, and are thinking a bit more long-term, a lot of people are recommending the Frsky Taranis.
Here are some suggestions:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- If connecting via USB, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" generally doesn't work very well).
- Perhaps you can remap the yaw output channel (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
The one you linked to seem to be a data cable (for updating the transmitters firmware).
You need a universal USB simulator dongle such as this, or, if the transmitter has a 3.5mm trainer port you can use a standard 3.5mm mono audio cable.
In case you have a spare receiver this wireless simulator dongle is another alternative.
(As always, there is no way that I can guarantee that the suggested products works with your particular setup, the only way to know for sure is to try it yourself)
That's weird, the input method for the demo and full version is exactly the same, so it should work. Perhaps you could try restaring your computer, and run the full version before you try the demo, just to be sure that the demo isn't still lingering in memory and somehow interfering with the input on the full version.
Do you see no input whatsoever when you go through the "calibrate contoller" procedure in the full version?
You can email the "output_log.txt" (and "crash.dmp") file to fpvfreerider@gmail.com and I will have a look at it.
Does the full version start at all, do you get to the main menu?
Might have to do with the graphics or soundcard drivers, but if the demo is working the full version should to since they are basically the same.
I know some people have been able to use their Dynam controllers.
- Make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
Do you see any movement of the little circles when going through the calibration phase?
Hi, I was referring to this hobbyking 6ch USB controller, which I have received several reports of it not working with the simulator.
Often when only one axis is not working, it can be fixed by trying one of these things:
- Make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
You guys are awesome! Thank you for the advice & helping me out. After following your instruction to remove Vjoy & SmartPropoPlus, clean restart, & then re-installing the Hobby king USB wireless dongle driver everything works great. I was so happy in the success & being able to use my headphones that I had to go out & purchase the FPV Freerider "Recharged" edition to try the new courses & improved graphics.
Thanks again guys & Merry Christmas!!
J.
Hi, For some reason, I can't get my Turnigy Evolution to work with FPV Freerider and it is very frustrating. I can see that the computer recognizes the transmitter but when I go to calibrate the transmitter, none of the little circles on the page move when I move around the transmitter sticks. Sometime, only one of the aux switches on the transmitter will move just one of the circles on the calibrate page. I am using Windows 7 on my PC. When am I doing wrong???? I did not load the Vjoy driver becasue I was afraid it might interfere with my flight yoke for my other flight simulator game. And Yes, I did unplug my other flight yoke when I tried to get the Turnigy Evolution working. Can somebody please help me?? Thanks, Chris
Often if one channel is not recognized one of these general advice can be of help:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- Make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" generally doesn't work very well).
- If you are using a USB dongle - check if there's a switch on the dongle where you can select different modes.
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
It should automatically keep the calibration (as well as other settings). You can alter some values in the custom settings menu and see if those are being saved. If not, perhaps you can investigate so that there is no permission issue that keeps it from saving (I'm not familiar how these things work in Linux). (In linux I believe the Playerprefs are stored under "/home/your user/.config/unity3d").
As you have sort of figured out you select the mode during calibration (by using the stick that you want for each axis, for example, it says "throttle up" on the top of the calibration window and you use the stick you want to assign as throttle. It is described in the manual. The quick mode selection is for touch screen input only). I remember another Linux user reporting a while back that he also had to recalibrate each time. Might have something to do with the joystick drivers if that is the case for you too.
I'm not a Linux user myself and don't know how to configure joysticks in Linux. Hopefully someone who knows will be able to chime in.
At least on Windows, you want to make sure to not have any other joysticks or special input devices such as wacom tablets connected as that sometimes causes a conflict which makes Freerider unable to recognize your joystick.
After looking through several forums and playing around with python-uinput (allows to software emulate HID stuff like joysticks) I found that this framework needs a joystick that has at least 1 button in order to use it - having 4 axes only is not sufficient!
On top of what framework was this software written? Is this Source Engine? Or UNITY Engine? I noticed that this console text output pattern ("Using libudev for joystick management") is pretty common. If you could tell me that I would open a bug report there.
I'm not sure if you ever found a solution, but thanks to the information you provided about needing at least one button I was able to resolve the same issue for myself.
I used Wejoy (https://github.com/Vantskruv/wejoy) to create a "virtual" joystick with 1 button and 4 axes and just forward the necessary axes from the physical device to the virtual. Hopefully that's useful to you or some future Linux user in need of a fix.
I cant help you with a solution because I have exactly the same problem. However I dont think its got anything to do with Freerider. I , like you can get the transmitter to bind with the dongle but in any sim I try (DRL,Velocidrone) the result is excatly the same as you describe , only one axis seems to be recognised. I tried the dongle with an old Spektrum Dx4 transmitter I have and it works fine so its something to do with the Orange Tx and the dongle but I cant work out what! They do recommend that you have your transmitter set to HELI but didnt make any difference for me.
Thanks for replying and glad to know that I am not the only one out there with this issue. Spent hours trying to resolve to no avail. All I wanted to do is practice on a drone simulator and had no idea it would be this difficult. I agree this has NOTHING to do with Freerider but some quirky setup on computer I am sure. Sorry that you are facing the same. I guess I will have to see if I can return the dongle as right now it is not useable and look into purchasing a simulator transmitter that should work.
I appreciate your time.
Have a great week.
Mark
Your welcome. I've ordered a cable off eBay to see if that works with the transmitter as I'd rather use the Orange one as opposed to the DX4 but slightly disappointing that the dongle doesn't appear to work with a transmitter from the same manufacturer ! I was hoping it might be something simple but I've tried all I can think of to no avail!
Paul
Here are some general suggestions which often helps when one or more sticks are not recognized:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- If connecting via USB, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" generally doesn't work very well).
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
If none of the above works you could try to connect an ordinary 3.5mm audio cable from the trainer port of the transmitter to the audio-in (or mic-in) jack of your computer, along with a software called Smartpropoplus (Windows only).
http://www.smartpropoplus.com/site/
There is more info on that in the Spektrum setup tips document:
You could also add https://www.instructables.com/id/RC-Transmitter-to-USB-Gamepad-Using-Arduino/ to the manual, as this is an USB Adapter that works for win, linux and mac as standard HID interface, meaning it does not need any driver. It basically allows you to connect any PPM outputting transmitter (which is a quite big class) as gamepad to your machine. Only thing is you have to build it yourself based on an Arduino - however you can see this as an advantage or a drawback, as you wish... ;) I like it and it for me the preferred way of connecting any transmitter.
FPV Freerider does not have the ability to read the values directly, it goes though Unity's input manager (That is used when developing the sim). I can only see that values that is coming through that input manager.
Is your Thrustmaster connected directly via USB, or does it have some other kind of connection/driver?
It is connected through USB - standard HID device, no drivers needed.
I also tested with Unity 5.6.0f3 and the behavior is the same. I don't think there is anything that can be done. Others have also stumbled upon this:
http://answers.unity3d.com/questions/351141/joysti...
Alas there seems to be no solution.
Anyway ... I've hooked my RC transmitter through vjoy so I'll use that.
Best~
If you are able to move the little white circles on the calibration screen smoothly up and down, that's a sign that it's working.
If the automatic stick detection gets it wrong, you can click on the circle that you see is the correct one (instead of clicking "ok").
When you get to the trim screen, you will be able to see if the stick movement is recognized correctly.
And, in case you haven't seen it here's a document describing how you need to setup the Taranis for it to work correctly on Windows:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwSDHIR7yDwSOGhPMTFyWEpDVWM/view?usp=sharing
Here are some general suggestions that often help when one channel is not recognized:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- If connecting via USB, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" generally doesn't work very well).
- If you are using a USB dongle - check if there's a switch on the dongle where you can select different modes.
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
As for your mic port problem, it sounds like there is some kind of dead zone activated. First of all, make sure that dead zone is turned off in the main menu of Freerider. Second, check if you can turn off the dead zone in the software that you use.
Btw, some Taranis users on linux are experiencing that there is always a dead zone by default. It needs to be turned off by running:
" $ jscal -c /dev/input/js0 "
( source: https://github.com/opentx/open... )
Thank you very much for your answer!
Actually I have no clue how to connect the Evolution to the computer. If I plug it in, nothing happens (no sound or anything in the device manager). Could this be because of SmartPropoPlus? Shall I deinstall it?
Update: Tried to deinstall SPP, didn't help. I actually think that the USB on my Turnigy Evolution is broken. =(
That is an issue with Unity's input manager (The sim is developed in Unity). It seems to be more pronounced on some devices/operating systems. I have been unable to find a solution. the best workaround I found for now is to add a small delay so that the player has time to move the stick a bit so that it "wakes up". (It just needs to be nudged a small amount).
It might be that you need to change some settings on the transmitter itself. I found this info on another forum:
"For Futaba 18SZ - You'll need to configure the Trainer Port function;
Linkage menu > Trainer
ACT/INH - ACT
Teacher/Student - Student
Channel mode - 8 Ch
Both stereo and mono adapter cables appear to work with the Futaba trainer port, however caution is required here. A correctly wired adapter when installed turns the Futaba 18SZ and 14SG on. "
Source and more information: https://steamcommunity.com/app/410340/discussions/1/359543951733047725/
The Turnigy Evolution most often seem to simply work plug&play. You might want to try and see if you can calibrate it as a joystick in Windows own calibration, just to see if it is properly recognized. (In the Control Panel).
Also you might check:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- Uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have any of that software installed. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
1. I remember a few other Linux users had the same problem, at least one can be found a bit further up in this thread. Don't know if he managed to find a solution.
It should automatically keep the calibration (as well as other settings) in Linux as well as on all other platforms. You can alter some values in the custom settings menu and see if those are being saved. If not, perhaps you can investigate so that there is no permission issue that keeps it from saving (I'm not familiar how these things work in Linux). (In linux I believe the Playerprefs are stored under "/home/your user/.config/unity3d").
Good thing that you at least managed to get it calibrated properly. As you probably noticed - if one axis is reversed, you can simply reverse it in the trim settings (Click "Calibrate Controller" on the main menu and then "Skip to trim settings")
My guess is that the whole thing has to do with the joystick drivers on Linux not being consistent in some way.
Some Linux users seem to have success using this program: https://github.com/Vantskruv/wejoy
2. In Windows there's a command line parameter -"adapter N" that can be used to select which monitor you want to run it. That only works on Windows though as far as I know. Hopefully someone who is more knowledgeable in Linux will be able to chime in.
( Here is a list of the runtime command line parameters: https://docs.unity3d.com/Manual/CommandLineArguments.html )
1/a. I only managed to calibrate it once when the two directions weren't mixed up, but it got messed up again when I started the program the third time.
1/b. It wasn't an axis being reversed (up is down, down is up), it was the two changed up (up is left, down is right). So there's no way to fix it on Linux at the moment.
1/c. I'll check out wejoy, thanks.
End result: I'm using my laptop instead, booting win10. Having loads of fun. I'm still terrible at it but in my defense I'm starting from Acro with high rates so it will take a while. Sometimes it clicks and I make a bit of progress and it feels awesome. I probably won't even try flying my quad for a few more weeks before I get the hang of the controls.
1b: If the automatic stick detection gets the sticks messed up, you can click on the little circle that you see is the correct one (instead of clicking OK) when going through the calibration procedure.
Glad that you are able to use it on your laptop at least. I'm sure you will find that any practice you put in will pay off later in real life flying.
First of all you can try to simply connect your QX7 directly via USB cable, that usually works well.
As for the Orange RX dongle, according to HobbyKing "Mac users will need to download the relevant HID drivers", perhaps you could check with them (or wherever you bought the dongle) if they have suggestions on how to get it working right.
Usually when some channels work but not others it is because there's a conflict with some other input device. Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers/graphics tables connected at the same time.
Also, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
(And, some controller works just fine on some hardware/operating systems, and not so well on other. Therefore there is never I guarantee that any particular controller will definitely work on your particular system).
OK just a little followup here. I did manage to get my controller working after all (with some help from a friend.) In my case, the controller has 4 settings that you can choose for it to emulate different modulation schemes. We got it to work with the switch that is at the bottom of the controller set to the second setting from the bottom. It says something like ACR or something like that . Sorry but I don't have it in front of me right now. But with it set there we did get it to work on Windows 10. However it would not work properly on my Windows 7 computer. Obviously your mileage may vary, but hopefully this might help someone else out
First I apologize for not looking thru this forum. I didn't see a search for it and about 3 pages in, I gave up looking for my solution. My controller did have an on/off switch for ANALOG so eventually I left that on. I used a tutorial from YouTube on how to calibrate my Twin USB Joystick in the Device Managers settings: Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Devices and Printers | right-click it. And at first, that didn't work. I had two joysticks listed under that window. I kept doing it over and over again with the first one listed. When I selected the second, joystick listed, I could finally see movement on the screen. I calibrated there and then I calibrated inside of FR and it finally worked.
I did have to re-calibrate a few more times because I was losing some control in the right stick.
Hey,
Everything works with my Turnigy i6s so the set up is good, and you don't really need a USB dongle with Taranis radios because of the mini-USB port, it's automatically recognized as an HID device. It's detected by my Mac and works great with other software asking you which input controller you want to use (crrcsim for example). Freerider just doesn't seem to want to choose it, it's weird…
As it works fine on your Widows 10 machine I presume you have the Q X7 set up with a model according to the Taranis Windows setup guide.
On Android it usually works plugged in using a default model. That is, don't use your windows model setup on your Taranis, try with a default model setting and see if that makes a difference.
Hi there and thank you! Hmm does it not see the joystick input at all?
That is, are you not able to move any of the little circles on the calibration screen up and down?
What kind of radio are you using?
Sometimes there's a conflict if you have other joysticks/controllers/input devices connected at the same time (even Wacom tablets can sometimes cause a conflict)
Best Regards
Thanks for the reply! Yes, i was not able to move the circles.
Except now, after i uninstalled drivers for a 3D Connexxion Space Navigator. After this uninstall everything works as usual.
Unfortunately i need this space navigator for work, so either i uninstall/install that 3dconnexxion drivers at every freerider session, or there might be a fix in the future.
Best Regards
Here are some general suggestions that often help when a few of the channels are not recognized:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- Make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" generally doesn't work very well).
- Check if there's a switch on the dongle where you can select different modes.
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
yeeehaaa I have got it to work. It seems the problem was that I didn't have the tx selected to heli as heli is not available on the futaba t6exa so I swapped to a futaba ff8 and it works perfectly. I will be upgrading to the full version soon. Can the fpv camera angle be changed in the full version? Thanks again fpv freerider :)
Thanks! Glad to hear it's working on your setup.
It does in fact save the config automatically, and once you have calibrated you should never have to do it again. But, I have got several reports from Linux users that the calibration does not save (or that it suddenly 'disappears'). I haven't been able to find out why though. Perhaps it's has something to do with permissions - Unity (that is used for development) stores the data under /home/your user/.config/unity3d
You could try checking that location to see if the data seems to save or not.
Or, perhaps Unitys input manager is not working very well with all Linux distributions.
There is always an option for USB controller, just click the button on the right side of the main menu repeatedly to toggle input mode.
(USB Controller/Keyboard/Touchscreen)
For it to be recognized correctly on Windows you need to set up the endpoints according to this document:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwSDHIR7yDwSOGhPMTFyWEpDVWM/view?usp=sharing
(There is also some general tips in the manual).
I'm not a linux user myself so I'm not going to be able to be of much help here. If you have any other joysticks/controllers/drawing tablets connected at the same time you can try to disconnect those, having more than one can cause a conflict.
You might know of the jscal joystick calibration program, you could try playing around with the setting there.
Are you seeing any movement on any of the little circles as you go through the "calibrate controller" procedure in Freerider?
Your best bet to find specific instructions for your particular setup would be to search around for youtube videos and/or forum posts from people who have similar equipment.
Since you have the Devo 7 that does not have a USB port it becomes a bit more tricky. You will need to connect it via the trainer port instead.
On Windows that would be pretty easy using a software called Smartpropolus. I haven't been able to find a similar software for Linux.
(Devo 7E in combination with Deviationtx would be easier since that can act as a USB joystick)
You might also be able to use a universal 22-in-1 USB dongle such as this.
https://www.banggood.com/22-in-1-RC-Flight-Simulator-Cable-for-Realflight-G7-G6-...
Not sure if it works on Linux.
(You might also be able to connect it via a wireless USB dongle in combination with a receiver for the Devo 7, I wouldn't really recommend going down that path unless you are willing to do a lot of research though).
It might just be easier to get a USB dummy controller such as this:
https://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Httpwww_banggood_comWholesale-6CH-G4-XTR5_0-R...
Not sure if that works on Linux either though. So in summary, I cannot give a definite answer for such specific and hmm shall we say tricky equipment. There are so many Linux distributions and variations, you need to try it on your own setup to know what will work for sure.
Are there a few channels that are giving input during the calibrate controller procedure, and some that does not? (You should see the movement of each stick represented by one of the little circles above the OK button)
In that case you can check:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- Make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio.("Plane" often doesn't work very well).
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
Thank you for the video. Have you tried setting up your transmitter according to the Taranis setup document?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwSDHIR7yDwSOGhPMTFyWEpDVWM/view?usp=sharing
I think it might work if you do.
Thank you for replying and finding a solution to the problem. I too had the same exact issue that jaseduar10 was having. Freerider works perfectly without any modification to model settings when connected to either directly to USB, or using HobbyKing Orange FrSky USB Dongle wirelessly. But i feel the problem should be addressed. XSR-SIM works with other Sims without any model settings. Why is FreeRider interpreting inputs incorrectly when connected with XSR-Sim USB dongle only? I have many sims, but Freerider is the one I come back to when I need to refresh my thumbs when I haven't flown in awhile. But if we make model settings on the X9D, makes me feel differently about using FreeRider as a "Sim".
Thanks for all your support
FPV Freerider is developed in Unity and uses Unity's input managed. I can only read what is coming through the input manager.
With the benefit of hindsight perhaps I should have used another input manager, but currently I am hesitant to make any major changes to the input method since that might cause unexpected issues for people who have it set up working fine as it is now.
You should still be able to use the same equipment. The input system of FPV Freerider is the same.
Note that if you are using a FrSky 9X/Frsky Q X7 or similar you should be able to connect it directly via USB cable (no need for a dongle). There are lots of youtube videos that shows how that is done, a collection of links is at the very first post of this forum thread.
Thank you, I'm glad you like it! I'm not exactly sure what you mean since I'm not a Linux user myself. However, in short, I don't have direct control over the input - I can only see what comes through Unity's input manager (I use Unity for development). Therefore any device needs to be correctly recognized by the Unity input manager to work.
Thank you for answer. I found how to add device to Unity project, but not sure, if it help someone except me. May be simpler to fix joystick.
Yes, you can have a look at some tutorial videos on how to connect it. For example:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgV_YlA9pxo
There are many more videos that show how to do it, you can try searching for "flysky i6 freerider" on youtube for example.
Also there are some general advice in the user manual.
When you go through the calibrate controller procedure, are you able to move four of the little circles with the sticks?
Sometimes the automatic stick detection gets it wrong. Keep an eye on the little circles as you go through the calibration. You can manually click on the circle that you see is the correct one for each stick (instead of clicking "ok")
If there are less than four circles moving as you go through the calibrate controller procedure you can try these things:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- If connecting via USB, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
First of all, if you happen to have an Xbox/Playstation controller (or similar gamepad with two analog nubs) laying around you can try that first of all. That will not give very accurate control though. It is way better to use an actual RC transmitter.
If you are thinking of getting into the hobby more seriously my best advice would be to get a good RC transmitter right away which you can use to fly your real quads as well as practice on the simulator. For example the Taranis Q X7 is a popular radio which is good value for money I would say. It is highly likely that it will work as a joystick on your Linux machine, connected directly via USB, but you will have to try to know for sure if it works on your setup.
Since it works on your desktop computer it should work on your laptop too. Here are some general suggestions that often help when one channel is not recognized:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- If connecting via USB, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them installed. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" often doesn't work very well).
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
You could also simply try plugging it into another USB port and see if that makes a difference.
Can't speak for what controllers will work best on your setup (especially since I don't even own a Mac myself), generally I would recommend using an actual RC radio most of all. There are models with USB connection possibility that can be found about for the same price as a Playstation/Xbox controller. And actual RC radio will give a lot more fine control. Also, since gamepads have self-centering throttle they will never be really ideal for simulator practice.
Thanks for sharing the information. Hmm it's strange that you have to re-do the calibration, you really shouldn't have to do that if you got it right once. In case it looses the calibration or there is some strange behavior like not all axis are working, it's usually some conflict with another USB device. If you have more than one input device connected at the same time (another joystick, drawing tablet etc..) that can cause a conflict.
(It might also be a problem with the USB driver. For example if you have installed vJoy/Smartpropoplus or similar software, that might cause a conflict with the USB driver).
Well, since it was working before my guess is something has changed in your operating system (There has been no changes to the input method in Freerider). I know a lot of Windows 10 users started having problems with their USB drivers some weeks back due to an automatic Windows 10 update. You might need to revert to the old drivers, you can find more information and a possible solution here:
Did you select "Joystick" as you connect it (not mass storage)? Do you see it as a joystick/HID-device in your Windows Control Panel>Devices and Printers ? You need to make sure that the radio is recognized as a joystick by your operating system first of all. If you are not able to get help here or by youtube videos my best bet would be do try to get help in a dedicated Taranis X9 Lite thread on the RC Groups forum for example.
Yes, there was an automatic Windows 10 update that rolled out some weeks ago that broke the USB drivers. If anyone else is having a similar problem you can find more information here:
Windows 10 USB driver fix
youtube.com/watch?v=rk6bjS4PEWI
youtube.com/watch?time_continue=4&v=SDnRSL3rDwM
https://batcavegames.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/16000099501-window...
Here are some general suggestions that often help when one or more channels are not recognized:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict.
- If connecting via USB, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them installed. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
- Make sure you have "Heli" selected as model type on your radio. ("Plane" often doesn't work very well).
- Perhaps you can remap the output channels (in the menu of the transmitter) so that it sends to another channel.
Please note that during the calibrate controller procedure in Freerider, sometimes the automatic stick detection gets it wrong. If needed, it is possible to manually override the automatic stick detection
Keep an eye on the little circles above the OK button. Instead of clicking OK you can click on the circle that you see is the correct one for each channel. (You will still need to keep the stick all the way in the direction shown while clicking in order for the calibration to work correctly).
There is more information in the user manual and Taranis setup document.
I see, you get the same result with all three controllers?
Often when only one axis is not working, it can be fixed by trying one of these things:
- Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected at the same time, that might cause a conflict.
- Make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
Keep and eye on the little circles above the OK button as you go through the Calibrate Controller procedure in Freerider. You should be able to move some of the circles smoothly up and down using the analog sticks. Sometimes the automatic stick detecting gets it wrong, in that case you can manually click on the circle that you see is the correct one (instead of clicking 'ok"). (You will still need to hold the stick fully in the direction shown for the calibration to work correctly).
Hi, from what you describe it sounds like you need to set up the endpoints on your radio.
I am not familiar with the Betafpv Literadio 2, but the issue sounds similar to what some Taranis users are experiencing (depending on what firmware version the Taranis is running).
In the case of the Taranis, the endpoints sometimes needs to be set up so that the range is from 0 to +100 (instead of -100 to +100)
It is described in this document: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwSDHIR7yDwSOGhPMTFyWEpDVWM/view?usp=sharing
There is also some youtube videos that shows how to do it on the Taranis, for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlR5eqm1aKE
Also, if the automatic stick detection gets it wrong during calibration in Freerider you can manually click the circle that you see is the correct one (instead of clicking 'OK')
Hope you can use a similar method on your radio to get the calibration to work correctly!
Thanks for the fast reply. I think you are right. The range is currently - 100 to +100 (instead of 0 to 100). I have installed open tx 2.3.6 and can see those ranges in action when the sticks are moved but I can't figure out where to change the range to 0-100. Anyone have any info on this? Is that doc you sent me pictures of screen areas in open tx, or are they pics of adjustments made directly on the controller (as the Radiolite 2 does not have a screen...). Thanks again.
I found this manual for the BetaFPV Literadio 2:
However it doesn't mention anything about whether any setup adjustments is possible regarding the endpoints. My suggestion would be to contact BetaFPV directly and ask them if/how you can change the settings.
(FPV Freerider can only read what is coming in through the input manager. The input is shown as the little circles above the OK button as you go through calibration in Freerider. Ideally you should be able to move the little circles smoothly up and down between the lines on the left which marks the max/min value.)
(And yes, the pictures in the document I sent in the earlier reply is from what is seen directly on the screen of the transmitter itself, in this case a Taranis X9D).
It's a known issue with the Unity input manager and some versions of OpenTX.
Yes you are right, you need to setup the endpoints on your radio to go from 0 to +100 (instead of - 100 to +100)
You can find information on how to get your controller set up in the Taranis setup guide.
(There are also a lot of youtube videos that shows how to do it).
You can also find some general tips in the user manual.
Hi,
have a problem with a simple USB RC "Transmitter". In WIN 10 Properties i can see action when i push the sticks. But in Freerider no action when i try to calibrate. About one year ago i had no problem with this transmitter. I already tried the WIN 10 USB Driver fix. Same result. Can somebody help me further?
The input system in Freerider is the same as before, so I suspect there must be something that has changed on your system.
The automatic Windows 10 update broke the USB drivers for a lot of people, so that would be the first things that I would investigate further. I understand that you have already tried it, but I believe on some systems it might be more persistent and you might need to use a different method. Here is the method that usually works for most people (the one I guess that you have already tried).
You might want to try to search for some other methods if that didn't solve the issue on your computer. Try searching for "windows 10 usb joystick driver" on Youtube for example, here are some links: 1 2 3 4 5
Also check, just in case - that you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected, that might cause a conflict. And, make sure you uninstall vJoy and Smartpropoplus if you have them installed. Their driver messes with things when connecting via USB.
Not sure what the mystery controller might be. I use Unity's built in input manager for the controls, I don't think it can show the name of the controller it's actually reading. Also I'm not a Mac user myself so I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to Mac specific questions. At least on Windows joysticks/controllers that are being detected usually shoes up as a generic HID device in the operating systems device manager. Perhaps you could try to temporarily disable the last thing that you suspect might show up as a controller (although I wouldn't really recommended it if it is indeed some kind of security chip...).
My guess is it's the xbox 360 controller driver that doesn't get picked up as a joystick in Unity's input manager. Did you try to connect the controller without any extra drivers first? (A lot of the time generic gamepads automatically connects as joysticks, at least on Windows).
Hmmm that is very strange. Installing the full version shouldn't affect the demo, or vice versa.
If you have already tried all other reasonable approaches, this is what I would do:
- Delete both the demo and the full version from your computer.
- Restart your computer.
- Download the zip file for the full version again (just in case there was some error in the download)
- Unzip the full version, possible to another folder on your hard drive
- Re-connect your transmitter. Make sure you don't have any other joysticks/controllers connected at the same time as that might cause a conflict.
- Try to re-calibrate in Freerider
(As you may know there was an automatic Windows 10 update that rolled out some time ago that broke the USB drivers. I don't think that is the problem on your system though since you were using it without any problems basically just minutes before. I just thought I'd mention it anyway. You can find more information here).
I see, well I'm not a Mac user myself so I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to MacOS specific stuff.
I would still suggest trying to start from scratch as much as possible, deleting the earlier versions and re-installing the full version.
The first thing I would do, unless you have already done so, is to simply restart the computer and see if that makes a difference.
(One more thing, you could try to go into the save game data of Freerider and see if perhaps something went wrong there. If the data somehow got messed up you might be able to get it working by deleting the old save data. The data is stored at: ~/Library/Preferences/Freerider (or something similar to that) )
Make sure you select "Joystick" as connection method when you plug in in (not "Mass storage").
What operating system are you running it on?
Do you get any movement of the little circles as you go through the Calibrate Controller procedure in Freerider?
There was an automatic Windows 10 update that rolled out some time ago that broke the USB drivers. Not sure if that affects you, but you can find more information here.
Also, there is some general tips in the user manual that you can check out.
Ok glad that you are at least able to fly using the Xbox controller. Of course it's a lot nicer to use an actual radio, so I hope you will be able to get it working. Perhaps you need to check out the Windows 10 update document (link in the above post), there are also a lot of videos on youtube videos that speaks of how some Windows 10 update broke the USB drivers (not just for Freerider) and that shows how to fix it.
Thanks for the video, judging from that it will be easy to get it working -
First of all, in the beginning it says "center all sticks", you don't need to move them - if they are already in the center just leave them be.
Second, if the automatic stick detection gets it wrong you can manually select the channel that you see is the correct one. Keep an eye on the little circles above the OK button. They show the input that is being read from the stick movement. You can manually click the little circle that you see is the correct one (instead of clicking 'OK'). (You will still need to hold the stick in the direction shown for the calibration to work correctly).
Hope that helps, let me know if you need any more info!
Generally speaking, if a controller can be recognized as a joystick by the operating system there's a good chance that it can be used with FPV Freerider.
However, I have heard reports from many people that the betafpv literadio2 does not support joystick emulation on Android. (I do believe it works in Windows though).
Since it is not recognized correctly by the operating system there is nothing I can do about it unfortunately.
