itch.io

Thanks Charlie, I should have also asked are there going to be updates, I know we talked about inlays and was wondering if that is still moving forward. 

Joe..

Hi Charlie, is this software at its end of life? 

Thanks Joe

Charlie..

I just started 3d carving using STL files. I was testing some cut files , and was looking at the confine cut option for operations parameter. I understand how it works. For those type of files, confine cuts would be better option to confine it to the STL layer. It could be used for borders and clamping easier . Point out the error of my ways.

Thanks Joe

Thanks...who would have thought... I'll give it a whirl

Joe

Charlie.. These come in various sizes. Thanks Joe

HI Charlie..

I wanted to try a new type of tool . It's a pointed round over bit. Is there a way this can be described in the tool library, or does it need its own category ? If I can't describe it with the existing definitions, is it a possibility for a future add-on. 

Thanks Joe...
   

 I've tried the hole drilling , I get operation failed to generate tool path. I'm not seeing what I did wrong. I have my path layer selected with the holes. They are 1/4 inch holes, tool is 1/8 EM , have my cut and max depth selected.Not sure what I'm missing, any thoughts ? With a Regular tool bit , how do you describe it in tool definitions? 

Thanks Joe

Hi Charlie;

I was trying to drill some  holes for a game board. I just need the holes to locate some pegs, they screw in so i need the center located. I can't seem to find a operation that will do that.Ive used medial carve with a offset to find the center of hole, but it's not really a straight forward process. I saw in one of the topics a few month ago where you were working on a drilling operation. Is there an easy way I'm just not seeing.

Just a question about cutting out a project, using 1/4 EM and 2D profile milling, why does that require a step-over ?

Thanks Joe

Charlie;

I have been adding new bits lately, alot of bits have been including max rpm, max depth of cut, max IPM . would this be a good thing to add to the definitions, then when you choose a tool , the data could be entered into tool operations automatically as a starting point. I usually run at the max on all, machine is very rigid . If I make adjustments I do it on the fly.

Just a thought Thanks Joe

Been kicking around the idea of adding ATC, full disclosure I'm not exactly sure how they choose the correct tool. I was assuming that they go by tool number. All the projects start with one. Maybe that's not how they work. Any insight on that ?  One other thing comes to mind, Is there a way to run a custom macro such as M3333. Ive tried several things . I dont know how to add it , can it be added by comments? I cant seem to make that work. 

Thanks Joe

Hi Charlie,

After I create my G-code, the tool numbers are labeled as the project labels them. Always starts with number 1.  I looked through the post file, is there a way the tools can get labeled by the number in the tool library ?  I have a lot of bits and it would be easier to just label them with the corresponding number in the tool library.  Did I miss something . 

Thanks Joe

Hi Charlie....

Did inlays operations ever get the upgrade, or am I still using the old knowledge ways ? Or did I miss it entirely ?

Thanks Joe

Charlie....

I've been reading about Tapered RN bits for inlays. Example bit .25 mm diameter ball nose with a one side angle of 5.25 deg. Is the tool path calculated using the RN ? (Mostly  for surface contouring) Does the angle figure into the toolpath ? For medial axis carving. From what I understand RN is not recommended for inlays without some compensation, seems like mostly trial and error. Or am I totally missing something? I've done simulations and the offsets are off for RN tapered bits using the angle. Any insight you can provide would be great.

Thanks Joe....

Charlie...

I just had to try one more old way...The brown is  vinyl floor laminate, a little fuzzy I never cut plastic before. I need to tune my feeds and speed. I offset the female a tiny bit. Depth is .15 10.5 degree Bit. They fit perfectly together. This topic is now closed....

Joe..

Charlie....

So now I have "Old Way Knowledge".... I'm ready to learn the New Way....Get rid of my obsolete brain cells.

Joe..

Charlie...There is a difference in the Gcode...When none is the option it does not output the block. when off is selected it issues the off command. Myself I would like the none option...

Thanks Joe...

Charlie...

I use coolant control as a M0 (stop) command that works for me, between operations

One thing thou...after you pick a coolant in the tool operation you can't go back to None as an option

Thanks Joe

Thanks Charlie...

I'll work on it custom post,  I try to keep you busy...Nice to have an estimated run time  for each operation.  BTW your estimated times in simulation are way off from actual.

Joe....

Charlie...

I do log slices, I flatten them before carving. I can do your suggestion with a small canvas z . A lot of times I have to do multiple passes. Is there a way to pause gcode between z changes. Example: If I want a total depth of .4 with a .1 cut , so from . 1 to .2 to .3 it would pause between z changes so I can  decide to continue or terminate.I never really know how much I have a to remove.

Thanks Joe

Charlie...

 I've been using a free surfacing gcode generator. Is there a way to create a surfacing tool path ?

If not maybe as a create new layer ?

Thanks Joe...

Charlie..

Final test at 10.5 deg at .15 depth.  This was in scrap pine, I'll never use sharp angle like this just a proof of concept. Surprised at how much detail could hold in soft pine. 

Joe....

Charlie....

I tried a 10.5 deg inlay. While the male fit in I couldn't seat it deep enough, think I have to offset one of the other to make it fit. All the missing pieces are because I didn't let the glue dry. I knew it wasn't seated correctly so I rushed ahead. That's not much of an angle needs some tweaking but it does work...no wonder I couldn't duplicate that color...Joe

Charlie.....

I can't get my simulation to look like this..the division between the green and purple at the bottom. What color setting do you adjust.  Mine is all one color. I've tried different combinations. Burning question of the day....

Thanks Joe

Charlie...

All the tear out occurred in the male piece before glueing. None occurred when I milled the waste off. The inside of the flower and some of the leaf ends were so fine a detail the pine could not hold it. The gaps are all tight the stain was still not dried when it was glued up. I was thinking a bit with a sharper angle to get a little  deeper and a  bigger saw gap. I've seen inlay videos where they were use 15 degree bit... I'm going to try again...

Charlie....

Cut my first inlay with 60 deg bit, .1 depth. This was just scrap pine , some of the very fine details got lost because of tear-out. This was a 3 x 3 hummingbird. Pretty happy with this result, I believe if this was a better wood it would have come out way better.

Joe....

Profiling..V carve ..pretty much any operations parameters that use offset as one of the settings...you already have offset by tool radius just update that setting button.  To do calculations on vbit deg and depth of cut. 

Charlie....

Just a thought. On your offset number you already know your bit geometry and your depth of cut. Can't you calculate that automatically, similar to your canvas top and zero out option. Give you a starting point to add or deduct from there. This would work in all your offset situations not just inlays.

Thanks Joe

Thanks Charlie...I was trying to calculate that. After you showed me the example, I checked my calculator it was set to radians. No wonder I couldn't figure it. I know you can do the calculation in Pixel, just easier to use calculator..(except this time). Sounds like a good addition the numbers seem to all follow your depth of cut. Only difference I'm seeing is the details in the design for your bit selection.  I'm close to trying a cut with a 60 deg bit. 

Charlie...Going over the details of female inlay. Don't know where you got your .105 , I know why the .005 but can't see where you got .1 ( important parameters here are the Offset and the Width of Cuts. We are cutting 0.1" deep so we want to push our 2D Profiling away from the sides of our design by 0.1", but we add 0.005")....how did you calculate the 0.1 or it just depth of cut ?

Thanks Joe...

Charlie....

Thanks lots of info to go through.  I'll give this a try soon, let you know how it works out.

Joe

Charlie....

No Hurry it's a future project a little ways off.  Thanks I'll check out your examples this week,

Joe

Charlie....I want to try some inlay projects. You have one picture of inlay in progress. I didn't see anything on your tutorials or YouTube. Are there any available ?

Thanks Joe 

Charlie...

That works fine , what I did on the first one I resized text layer manually to fit better. I compacted and made the font taller. When I did that I changed the whole font characteristic so there is no way for me to duplicate it easily. No way to make the text layer static ? The percent would work then ? As usual I do things the hard way....

Thanks Joe..

Charlie..

I have a street sign project I'm starting. My canvas size is 5.5 x 32 for the first one, I make my text layer with street name EG. Hollow Cavern Road. I size it to fit . My question is when I edit the words ,even taking the "d" out of road and putting it back the text layer changes size. the percentage in the font stays the same but I have to resize the text layer after editing.  Every sign will have a different length, but I want the font size identical. The way I'm doing it now is trial and error by matching letter size. I must be missing something..Is it something in my setup that's wrong. I've tried several things, the text layer dynamically changes it's what is messing me up I think. Any help would be great..

Thanks Joe

Don't know about Dremel they have a much higher RPM, nylon fingers will be a lot shorter I'm using 3" diameter wheels on  cordless variable speed drill. 

The ones I have they are made of nylon and very flexible, with the different grits some are pretty gentle. Even with softer woods and using a lighter touch I haven't found them to be harsh. I've used them for detailed carving with great results. You have to follow the cuts not across them, but can go against the grain just fine. I think it's mostly the pressure you apply, but pretty simple to use.

 A bit off topic....  I've been using these for awhile , been great for sanding after cutting. Come in different grits they work well. Alligator looks great.

Thanks  Charlie....

I've never explored those tools. A lot of options there to go through, I've never needed them . The card got me curious. 

Thanks Joe

Hi Charlie...

I got interested in your final example. I tried to recreate what you have done. I've tried several ways and can't get my sleeves looking nearly as good as yours . Would you mind sharing your method to get there ? It seems simple but it is not, would make a good video tutorial perhaps ?

Thanks Joe

The type of wood you choose will be very important to get the fine details to avoid the tearing out of the grain. Looks good Charlie.