Tried to play this with the keyboard at first, until I noticed the button (which I though would refresh the page). I love the technical challenge behind this game. Refresh rates, at least in my browser, made it diffcult to turn the snake at the right moment. Interesting aprpoach!
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FYI: the "turn" button has an "access key" specified ("e"), so it is technically possible to play via keyboard (assuming you know which modifier keys to hold down for your browser+OS combination). For example, on Firefox+Windows, I can hit Alt+Shift+e to rotate the snake.
And yes, having all the input round-trip to a data center in New York is annoying. But is it annoying as requiring JavaScript? ;)