itch.io

I checked most of the Jackal files in Bambu and they're opening for me without any issue. MB is a lot lower than most of my masks so that shouldn't be an issue for Bambu. I don't have Prusa slicer installed, but if they're all opening in bambu I assume this is something user-end. Could be an issue with your computer/software or your copies could have become corrupted. I would recommend re-downloading, or if you still have the zip you can probably just re-unzip. If a fresh copy of the Jackal doesn't open, its probably an issue with your computer.

You are really putting a lot of extra work into something that was probably an issue with your slicer or your filament. They're supposed to be thin, it reduces weight. You're going to make a VERY heavy headbase if you print it twice as thick.

but also
MeshMixer> Edit> Make Solid > accurate, accuracy/density 300-500, offset 0.8-1.6> plane cut to reflatten the bottom
would not recommend unless you're doing a foaming or spongy TPU print, and you will need to print the eyes smaller and nose/eyelids bigger (if you're good at math, you can math it, if you can't do math just print a few different sized versions at low quality to figure out the size)

I pattern my ears out of 1/2in foam.
3D printed ears need to be made out of TPU. I've experimented a few times with printed TPU(standard and foaming) ears on personals/commissions, but they had a lot of issues with durability.

original format is for "paint tool sai 2"
there's also a PSD (photoshop document) version that most software can open.

I only get cracks when my printer is having issues, or my slicer profile is bad.
Every design has been test-printed successfully (that's how I take photos) and I have used several of these (including the dire wolf) for finished heads

At 3-6 walls thick they shouldn't be brittle (they're 3 in some areas, supported by a framework of 5-6 wall thick reinforcement in other areas). If you're having issues with brittle/cracked prints in areas that are 3+ walls thick, you may be having extrusion issues or your filament may be humid (moisture causes most filaments to bubble and pop)

if you're worried you can also coat the inside in plasti-dip or similar material (which can sort of self-heal minor cracks)

Any ridged headbase will not be indestructible without being extremely thick/heavy (be it 3D printed, resin cast, or fiberglass/carbon-fiber) so if you want a base you can step on, you'll need to use foam.

I have seen them printed successfully in TPU, but I would not personally recommend it.

Generally TPU heads are designed to be thicker, so they can be printed as infill-only. I assume that helps with the heat issues (TPU bases can be hotter to wear than foam or PLA/PETG) and messiness of the material.

if we sold a hyena at fur squared it was probably the "gnoll", that's our grumpy hyena and would be in this set 
(any hyenas sold AFTER may 2025 are an updated/new model)

I only use supports for the nose and eyelids. The head will print fine without support, but I do use a raft to keep it from falling over.

2 magnets on the eyelid (one on each end) and a matching pair inside the base

I have no plans for breaking up these sets to sell the files individually. If I have stand-alone heads available at a later date they would still be $15-20. These are packaged to reduce the number of listings on my page and make designs easier to find.

I'm sorry you're having issues with your printers or print settings, but I've successfully printed every headbase I sell with no issue (the sample photos are at-scale, successful prints.)
Every base will print successfully with a raft or large brim (depending on your bed surface), and the only base that will require support is the skulldog.

I probably won't be adding any new split heads for a while (I do have them for some of the sets). It makes the heads easier to print on smaller printers, which makes them more accessible for people who are new to printing (in most ways, that is GOOD) and I don't have time to teach a bunch of people how to use their printer or glue a head together- so I don't think I'll be adding any new split up bases until I have time to also make tutorials 

Tusk has a hole for a magnet or velcro if you want it to be removable, Tusk2 has a little platform to make it easier to glue directly to the head

probably won't add an Ender cut version any time soon
(not until I have time to make a tutorial pdf for putting them back together and printing them correctly)
if you want to cut it yourself, I just use meshmixer. It's free and it's popular, so there's a lot of resources on youtube etc for learning your way around it